Category: Storage

  • Built storage shelves for icebox

    It quickly became clear that a wide open, deep icebox is extremely difficult to use efficiently–you spend all of your time rummaging through a stack of food, or have to remove everything to get what you want, or discover that containers have tipped over and spilled their contents.

    I decided to built boxes out of acrylic, using the jigsaw to cut the pieces, the sander to take off the sharp edges, and the methylene chloride toxic stuff to weld it all together.

    This is a process that I have used a couple of times now on the boat for working with acrylic, I believe I explained more of the details earlier.  Some of the details worth mentioning: cutting the acrylic with the jigsaw is frustrating, but doable with care and patience.  I use the wood scrolling blades; the metal blades seem to get gummed up and stall.  The blade just melts a path through the acrylic, which re-seals itself in places after you pass.  So then you have to go over the same cut a second time to free it up.  The blades get super hot and eventually snap, so you need quite a few of them.  There are special blades designed for cutting acrylic, but honestly I can’t tell the difference between them and the wood blades–perhaps they’re a bit more heat-resistant.

    The methylene chloride is a nasty solvent, extremely volatile (evaporates very quickly), and very thin.  A respirator and good ventilation is a must, or you will surely kill brain cells.  The deal is that the methylene chloride melts the acrylic, which then rebonds as the solvent evaporates; the result is literally a weld–continuous acrylic–rather than a glue job.  It is important to get the surfaces as flush as possible along the entire length of the seam, which can be difficult when cutting with a jigsaw.  Because the solvent doesn’t fill in any gaps whatsoever; so only the areas where the surfaces directly touch will contribute to the strength of the bond.

    There is a trick for applying the methylene chloride.   You use a little plastic bottle with a syringe cap.  You squeeze out the air in the plastic bottle, invert it and stick it into the container of methylene chloride, then let go and it will suck up into the plastic container.  You don’t need very much.  The you use the same method for applying: hold the syringe bottle upright, squeeze out a decent amount of air, then let go and invert the bottle.  While the bottle is sucking air, no solvent will come out even though it’s inverted.  Then you take the syringe and run it down the seam you’re welding, squeezing the bottle slightly to let the solvent drain out.  You will have 10 seconds or more to apply the solvent before the container refills with air and starts to leak out.

    It’s best to clamp the two pieces of acrylic together.  But, if you have a second person and steady hands, you can sometimes just hold the two pieces together while you weld them; it should only take about 45 seconds for the bond to set.

    It was a challenging problem, to figure out how to build the boxes such that they would fit down in the icebox.  At least one of the boxes I had to finish assembling inside the icebox–so that one will never come out without breaking it apart.  I put all of the boxes on rails–I used strips of starboard for this, nice and slick–so they slide back underneath the inaccessible sides of the box.  And I was paranoid about the box banging on the evaporator plate and damaging it, so I put extra effort into making blocks and stops that would prevent the acrylic from touching the evaporator plate.  After our first sail I discovered that I also needed to come up with a way to prevent the boxes from sliding back and forth while the boat rocked, so I used some cotter pins with keeper cords–works like a charm.  All in all, a very successful project.  No space is wasted and the system is easy to use.  It took a damn long time, but what’s new.

  • Moved Propane Locker, Added Lazarette

    The old propane locker was a fiberglass box mounted in the middle of the stern.  It protruded 5″ above the level of the seat, and was suspended in the enormous space of the lazarette, rendering the space unusable and the seat unseatable.

    We decided to remove the old propane locker, build a new one tucked into the corner as much as possible, and put flush fitting hatches over the lazarette and propane locker.  The job ended up being the biggest so far undertaken on the boat, and isn’t yet finished.  Of the many unforeseen hurdles, we discovered that we needed to move and/or reroute all three of the scupper drains on the port side, to accomodate the new propane locker (not to mention close the old propane drain and install a new one).  So this job alone required 4 new through-hulls and two new scupper drains on deck.

    Additionally, the deck just forward of the propane locker, especially around the rudder access hatch, was extensively delaminated (core was perceptibly soggy, damp, and black).  Jonny elected to dig out the core from the hatch and rudder post hole (i.e. without removing the top or bottom layer of fiberglass), and ended up removing the core to a distance of close to a foot in the space forward of the new lazarette hatch (there are some pictures of it).  Then he carefully measured and cut a few pieces of plywood that he buttered with epoxy and then shoved into the gap.  Afterwards there were some gaps left in the core where the plywood didn’t quite reach that I injected with resin, per the usual method (drill holes for the syringe, inject resin until it splooges out all over, let it cure, sand off the puddles of resin, quikfair the remaining divets, sand again).

    We built the new propane locker and the hatches out of the leftover fiberglass-covered plywood that we had fabricated for the icebox. We used two layers of the plywood for each of the hatches (the plywood was super thin), as well as a couple extra layers of knytex for additional strength.

    Jonny painstakingly glassed the box in place using strips of knytex–the box was odd shaped to accomodate the curves of the hull and the deck/coaming/toerail ceiling section.

    We made the ledges on which the lids will rest out of 3/8″ thick prefab FRP from Mcmaster-carr.  The lip is about 1/2″ wide, and the strip that forms the lip extends ~1-1/2″ underneath the deck.  The strips are epoxied in place (jonny pre-drilled pilot holes and screwed the strips in place to properly position them while the epoxy cured).

    Fairing and sanding the edges of everything was time consuming, as it always is.  It consisted of at least two rounds of Quikfairing, preceded by, separated by, and followed by tedious amounts of sanding.

    I entirely replumbed the propane lines while we were at it.  Per jonny’s insistence we went with a hose to run from the stern to the stove, instead of copper tubing.  It was definitely the right choice.  It was slightly more expensive, but eliminated extra junctions required at the stove.  A hose is required at the stove to accommodate the gimballing, and this way the one 25′ hose runs straight to the back of the stove.  I purchased the new style qcc quick connector to be used for attaching to the propane tanks–the previous system required wrenches, and the apparatus that connected to the tank (which included the regulator and the pressure gauge) was awkward and unwieldy.  Now a single high pressure line is connected to the active tank, and the regulator, pressure gauge, and other connections are mounted to the propane locker wall.  I also added a T-junction and short additional hose with a valve inside the propane locker (in the low pressure side) to be used for a propane grill to be mounted on the rail (which we don’t yet own).

    The resulting storage space gained in the stern is astounding.  I could lay down and take a nap in the space that we previously had no access to.

    Turns out we left too much of a gap for the gasket, and the lids sink too low, so I created a wall of foil tape around the inside edge, and poured a mixture of slightly thickened epoxy into the gap.  After it cured I ground/sanded it down to the right depth for the gasket.

    I figured out the hinge situation.  Then we painted the lids and the lips with two coats of the Primekote epoxy primer.  That’s as far as we’ve got so far.  Very close.

    I’m not finished posting pictures yet, stay tuned for more.

  • Modified back of port settee to hinge down for storage

    On the starboard side, the back of the port settee forms a short retaining wall in front of the bottom row of books, and this piece is hinged to fold down in order to access the books.  The port side was not constructed this way, and we have spent the past year being annoyed whenever we try to pull our bins in and out of that storage spot.  So jonny took the jig saw to it and used our remaining two sections of hinge scavenged from the old table to hinge it.  A barrel latch will be installed on each end to secure it.  Eventually I think we will build some shelves up in that space to better utilize it.

  • Installed storage shelves in wet locker

    First we moved the bar for hanging clothes a few inches inboard and up, in order to maximize the empty space behind and below.  Then Jonny built a box/shelf for the bottom and a few shelves above that, designed at a height that will accomodate our favorite brand of rubbermaid storage bin.